Exclusivity, limited collection
One of the main signs of the value of vintage jewelry is its uniqueness and rarity. The explanation is simple: mass-market technology (that is, stamping the same or very similar models) came to us relatively recently, which means that previously almost all jewelry was performed in very small runs or even piece by piece. If in front of you one and the same brooch in several performances, then, most likely, it is a fake antique. The older the jewelry, the more exclusive it is.
Antique jewelry or vintage costume jewelry, by definition, can not be cheap. The price of such items is based on several main factors:
The material of the jewelry.
For example, the plastic of the 70s is much higher quality than modern Chinese plastic. In addition, there are metal alloys that are no longer used by manufacturers.
Inlays. Antique precious and semi-precious stones grow in value over the years, especially if they have a rare cut or clarity. And even Swarovski crystals only get more expensive over time, due to their popularity and quality.
Here it is already clear: the older - the more expensive. A couple of decades and vintage jewelry goes into the category of antique, which noticeably affects its price tag.
Brand.
The more influential, more famous and more expensive is the jewelry house that made the ornament, the higher will be its value. The price of a piece of jewelry is one of the key factors when buying a vintage piece. Yes, miracles happen, and at the flea market in Paris, you can find a Christian Dior bracelet of the 70's for 50 euros in a pile of trash. However, truly valuable antiques will never be exhibited below the expert estimated value.Estimating the cost of jewelry - this is a huge job, which begins with the collection of all the information about the product, its creator, era, previous owners. Yes, if the brooch you have your eye on was once worn by Grace Kelly, it will cost many times more. Buying antique jewelry is a serious investment, because you are investing money not just in an accessory, but in an object of art, which over time will only grow in value.
Having a “book piece” status.
Book piece jewelry is a piece published in a catalog of vintage jewelry. This labeling on the piece guarantees quality and eliminates the risk of buying a fake. Vintage catalogs publish jewelry that has passed a strict, expert selection. To the most famous and reputable of them can be attributed: “Warman's Jewelry: Identification & Price Guide”, ‘American Costume Jewelry: Art and Industry’. These books include a large period of jewelry history, descriptions of styles and trends. You can also consult the catalogs of the famous Christie's or Sotheby's auctions. Note the term “costume jewelry” - this is rare costume jewelry, which is especially prized and for many antique hunters is no less cherished than real jewelry.
To understand what color and quality of metal have vintage jewelry, it is enough just to compare them with cheap Chinese mass-market. You don't need to be an expert or specialist to see the difference. Pre-80s jewelry is never bright yellow; its hue is more muted, light.
In addition, if the weight of the jewelry is light, then you have a modern example in front of you. Products created before the 90s are quite heavy, since certain metal alloys (zinc, rhodium and others) were used. Modern costume jewelry is lighter, usually made of aluminum.
Branding, marking, quality certificate
All vintage products are characterized by their own marking and branding. The most expensive and exclusive models are accompanied by a certificate of quality, which reflects the cost of jewelry and the presence of precious inlays. But the rules of marking apply not only to expensive jewelry, but also to costume jewelry.
Appearance of the jewelry
Every vintage or antique piece of jewelry holds a story that leaves its mark. If the jewelry in front of you is perfect with no scuffs or scratches, smooth and polished, it is most likely a fake. Traces of time are the main distinguishing feature of antiques. Yes, the jewelry may have been restored a bit (for example, the clips may be fitted with modern silicone pads on the locks), but in general vintage jewelry looks old and is rough and uneven to the touch.
